SS21 shows as a source of inspiration
Four timeless brands under the spotlight
Valentino as an ode to human beings
On January 26, Valentino’s creative director PierPaolo Piccioli has revealed his new Haute Couture line called Code Temporal at the sumptuous Galleria Colonna’s Sala Grande in Rom. The collection consists of 73 silhouettes, and is exploring of the notion of time through a breath-taking digital show which was highlighted by the music of Massive Attack’s member Robert del Naja. Paying tribute to the timeless rituals and values of Haute Couture, the collection first and foremost is an exaltation of the human being and his work. Time is understood as the time spent by the designer to conceive the creations and by the seamstresses to work on the pieces... Yes, Haute Couture still has a sense, and maybe even more in the times we are living in! Presented in an opulent decor from the Renaissance period, the cuts are mostly simple and minimalist, designed both for special occasions (the time will come!) as well as for daily looks. The mainly neutral colour palette is boosted by a bold, avant-gardist touch of vibrant colours such as apple green and mostly fuchsia a very trendy hue this season. Essentially crafted from high-quality silks and cashmeres, the collection is punctuated by golden accents which can be found on iconic accessories such as the Supervee bag and the Rockstud bracelet.
Kenzo as an echo with our fragilities
On designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s own admission: "the references, ideas and concepts of this collection are as eclectic, varied and contrasted as the states of mind that [he] went through since the beginning of the pandemic. […] Clothes transform themselves to adapt to all situations". Presented in Paris, at the heart of a luxuriant nature, the new beekeeper-inspired Kenzo collection Bee a Tiger stands out through elegant and poetic creations, with a hint of workwear spirit. As catalyst of life and regulators of the planet, bees have been the source of inspiration to create the floral motifs, which meet the brand’s iconic prints – some of them revisited with a modern twist. They are setting the tone of this line that echoes with our fragilities and the need of distance imposed today. The overall impression is solar and bucolic, authentic and realistic. While heads are covered by wide-brimmed hats that are adorned with an airy flower printed protective veil, the comfy and utilitarian silhouettes, from leggings to raincoats, through T-shirt dresses and tunics, come in clear hues such as yellow, blue, lilac or mint.
Etro as an invitation to travel
Escale sur la Riviera is like an invitation to travel and dream… In this new collection, Etro’s creative director Veronica Etro takes us on a journey to the Italian coasts through a nautical thematic, from rope prints to chain link motifs and stripes. Also taking her inspiration from emblematic frescoes of Italian palaces as well as from famous archives of the Etro’s house, the designer pays tribute to the artistic and cultural heritage of her country, revisiting in particular the signature Paisley print in a very chic monochrome way. Colourful, fluid and always elegant, the patterned shirts can be tied around the waist, while the shawl dresses), as centrepieces of the line, seduce with different shapes like long dreamy silhouettes or more casual shirt ones. The designs also stand out through very gorgeous acidulated colours: lemon yellow, turquoise, salmon or lavender. A collection between bourgeois attitude and boho charm, with a hint of relaxed irony…
Chloé as a surge of hope
On October 1st 2020, Chloé has presented her new collection at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris through an innovative show combining immersive digital and physical experience. While some of the models were traditionally walking on the catwalk, others simultaneously appeared on three giants screens, strolling through Paris’ streets to the Palais, and thus multiplying the perspectives and points of views. A Season In Hope is a reflexion on intimacy, self-affirmation and the world around us. As creative director of the house since 2017, Natacha Ramsay-Levi unveils a collection of 37 boho and romantic silhouettes that are reinterpreted in a minimalist and timeless way, as with clean and minimalist cardigans, jumpers made of wool and silk in soft pastel tones as well as glamorous wide leg trousers – Natacha’s very favourite silhouette. Of course, references from the world of art were once again highlighting some of the brand’s creations, as this is the case since 1970… This season, standout pieces were printed, embroidered or woven with 5 scree prints by American artist and activist Corita Kent, with the emphasis on the female gaze. The (faux) collars in guipure sporting Art Nouveau inspired designs which can be seen on some dresses or jumpers also had a big impact. A collection like a “space where we can breathe, full of delicacy and poetry, while completely rooted in the reality of today’s world“.
18/02/2021
